“Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.”
Mark Twain
There are few ways a new design emerges from the A.W. Bauer atelier. One of them is when a gem of a deadstock fabric is discovered at the bottom of an obscure warehouse. But first, this story needs some context.
While Americans popularized the European fabric, particularly through pop culture, it’s in Japan that the most exceptional denims have been woven and crafted for the past 60 years, at least. Some of the traditional shuttle looms used to weave the fabric actually made their way to Japan years ago, when they were not replaced by the iconic Toyoda Automatic Loom Works machines, which quickly overtook U.S. production as its quality began to decline.
The story of this jacket began when Frederik discovered a roll of fabric stored in a warehouse. The roll was intriguingly named "Black Cobra," which immediately sparked the imagination.
A few days later, the fabric arrived at the atelier, waiting to be unwrapped to see if the gamble had paid off. The result, as you already know, was 15oz of pure raw Japanese selvedge denim—the mother of all Black Cobra fabrics—an incredible, nearly bulletproof denim.
A good bet, indeed.
And so the foundation for creating the ultimate overshirt began with a blank canvas—or rather, a black one. It was now time to sketch out the shapes of what was meant to become a new standard.
An overshirt is an easy go-to for the everyday wardrobe, but behind the simplicity of this garment lies the hidden necessity for it to age well. That’s where selvedge denim comes in. Meant to develop a patina, fading gracefully and uniquely according to the wearer's habits. Hence the never-ending online contests of who will achieve the best fade over time.
This fabric, as robust as it is (you will break a nail on it), will fade and soften over time. That’s the magic of it, but it can also be controlled. Here are some tips to help your raw selvedge denim pieces achieve a better fade over time.
Some controversial advice suggests soaking your garment in water and wearing it until it dries on your shoulders. This might be a bit extreme, so unless you expect the excuse of an unexpected rainstorm, the first step is to avoid washing your garment too often. Let it air out after each wear to reduce the need for washing. Techniques exist to maintain good hygiene over time, but for a piece that doesn’t touch the skin directly, maintenance is much simpler than, say, a pair of jeans. When you do wash your garment, turn it inside out, wash it only with other denim items, and hang it to dry in the shade.
There are plenty more techniques online, but this is a good place to start.
Right after making the first prototype, we had a little game at the atelier.
Anyone passing by who was curious enough to try it on could slip The Cobra Shirt over their shoulders.
What can I say about the amazed reactions to such a unique, raw, and solid fabric?
Let’s just say that this little experiment drastically reduced the roll of fabric now sitting proudly by the entrance, right next to my desk as I write these lines.
The Cobra Shirt is born...
The Mother of All Black was born from an archaeological find in a fabric warehouse on the other side of the planet. From these dark corners to the light of Bauer's atelier, this garment began as a bet and turned into a promise: to stay on your shoulders for decades.
The way it’s meant to age is exciting in itself, but with the atelier's craftsmanship behind, this shirt is granted with a soul and a sense of beauty that can only be truly experienced when you have accepted to feel the bite of the Cobra for yourself...
J.U
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